How to Clean, Sharpen and Maintain Pruning Shears

Clean, sharp pruning shears cut faster, need less hand strength and protect your plants from disease. Looking after them takes about five minutes after each use and half an hour once or twice a season. This guide covers all of it: cleaning, disinfecting, removing rust, sharpening and oiling.

If you have arthritis or weak hands, maintenance matters even more. A dull or sticky blade can double the effort each cut takes.

What you'll need

• A stiff brush or old toothbrush, and a rag
• Warm water and a little dish soap
• A disinfectant: 70% rubbing alcohol is the easiest
• Fine steel wool or a scouring pad, for rust
• A diamond file or sharpening stone
• Light oil, such as camellia oil, mineral oil or light machine oil
• Gardening gloves

After every use: wipe, dry, oil

1. Wipe off sap and soil with a damp rag. Sap hardens fast and makes the blade stick.
2. Dry the blades and pivot completely. Moisture is what causes rust.
3. Add a drop of oil to the pivot and a thin film on the blade, then open and close the shears a few times.
4. Lock and store them somewhere dry, ideally in a holster or on a hook rather than in a damp shed drawer.

Our ratchet pruners come with a cleaning sponge for exactly this job.

How to clean pruning shears properly

Do a deeper clean every few weeks during the busy season, or whenever the blades feel sticky.

1. Scrub with warm soapy water using a brush, paying attention to the pivot and the gap between the blades.
2. Shift stubborn sap with a rag dampened with rubbing alcohol. It dissolves sap far better than water.
3. Rinse and dry thoroughly, including inside the spring and lock.

How to disinfect pruning shears

Disinfect between plants whenever you're cutting out diseased wood, such as black spot on roses or fire blight on fruit trees. Otherwise you can carry the disease to the next plant you cut.

• Rubbing alcohol (70%): wipe or dip the blades for 30 seconds. It works quickly and doesn't corrode metal. This is our first choice.
• Hydrogen peroxide (3%): wipe on and leave for a minute, then rinse and dry.
• Diluted bleach (1 part bleach to 9 parts water): soak for 30 seconds, then rinse well and dry straight away. Bleach is effective but corrodes steel if you leave it on.

Household vinegar isn't a reliable disinfectant for plant diseases, though it's fine for loosening grime. For more detail, see our full guide on how to disinfect pruning shears.

How to remove rust

1. Soak rusty blades in white vinegar for an hour or so to loosen the rust.
2. Rub the rust off with fine steel wool or a scouring pad.
3. Rinse, dry completely and oil straight away so the bare metal doesn't rust again.

How to sharpen pruning shears

Sharpen once or twice a season, or whenever the shears start crushing stems instead of cutting them cleanly.

1. Clean the blade first so the file isn't clogged by sap.
2. Find the bevel: the angled edge on one side of the cutting blade.
3. File along the bevel in smooth strokes from the base of the blade towards the tip, keeping to the existing angle. Ten to twenty strokes is usually enough.
4. Remove the burr with one or two light, flat passes on the back of the blade.
5. Test the cut on a sheet of paper or a thin twig, then oil the blade.

Anvil and ratchet pruners: sharpen only the top cutting blade. The flat anvil it closes against should not be sharpened. There's no need to take ratchet pruners apart; sharpen the blade with the shears locked open.

Bypass pruners: sharpen the cutting blade only. The lower hook blade isn't meant to be sharp.

Which oil to use

• Camellia oil: the traditional choice for Japanese tools. Light, non-sticky and food-safe.
• Mineral oil: cheap, food-safe and easy to find.
• Light machine oil or 3-in-1: very good rust protection for tools you won't use for a while.
• Boiled linseed oil: for wooden handles only, not blades.

Avoid cooking oils like olive or vegetable oil, which turn sticky and go rancid. WD-40 is useful for loosening a stiff pivot or lifting rust, but it isn't a long-lasting lubricant, so follow it with proper oil.

Storing your shears over winter

Before you put pruners away for the winter, give them a full clean, sharpen and a generous coat of oil. Store them locked, dry and off the floor. A holster hung by the back door keeps them protected and easy to find in spring.

Frequently asked questions

How often should I clean pruning shears?

Wipe and dry them after every use. Give them a deeper clean every few weeks in the growing season, and disinfect them between plants when cutting diseased wood.

Should I oil my pruning shears?

Yes. A drop of oil on the pivot and a thin film on the blade after cleaning stops rust and keeps the action smooth, which means less effort for your hands.

Can I use vinegar to clean pruning shears?

Vinegar is good for loosening rust and grime, but it isn't a reliable disinfectant. Use rubbing alcohol to disinfect.

How do I know my shears need sharpening?

If they crush or tear stems, leave ragged edges, or need noticeably more force, it's time to sharpen.

What if my TGF pruners break?

Contact us. If one of our tools breaks in normal use, we'll send you a replacement.